Cookbook Dinners at Marksman
It’s not often you’d be excited to have your former boss visit you at your new job. But for chefs Tom Harris and Jon Rotheram, getting Fergus Henderson – the man behind the British nose-to-tail revival – cooking at their new restaurant on London’s Hackney Road was cause for celebration. Having worked under Henderson for years at his duly lauded St John, the duo brought him on to mark the launch of Cookbook Dinners, a new series of set-menu evenings led by chefs conjuring classics and uncovering hidden gems from cookery history.
The idea behind the dinners is to “do something different than you normally would,” Rotheram says. “Also it’s fun to talk to other chefs about books that have inspired them. We’re very lucky to have Fergus for the first one.”
Working with what he calls “a flock of chefs,” Henderson dished up a menu pulled from the pages of Ma Gastronomie, a highly entertaining cookbook published in 1969 by the père of modern French cuisine, Fernand Point. The nostalgic, technique-heavy dishes were: Oeufs à la gelée, crème de volaille truffé, choucroute d’Ammerschwihr, crêpes Suzette and marjolaine. Wines were paired by St John partner Trevor Gulliver, and Henderson said he found the menu, “no challenge at all”.
Next up: on Tuesday 19 April, Jeremy Lee of Quo Vadis fame will be presenting a menu from Elizabeth David’s 1982 An Omelette and a Glass of Wine.